Scenery Where Rich Japan is Created:Tatehana Wharf Morning Market|美しい日本が生まれる風景:館鼻岸壁朝市

Japan, the island country which is slender and long, extending north to south. Small, but beautiful land with full of rich nature and blessed with pure water here and there. Delicious things have been developed from beautiful sceneries. In this series, we will introduce delectables originated from landscapes in Japan, which cannot be found in big cities.

Awakening Stomach at Dawn Tatehana Wharf Morning Market


Three thirty a.m. in the morning. There was already a long queue at fishing port before dawn. 

Here is Tatehana Ganpeki Asaichi (Tatehana Wharf Morning Market), one of the biggest morning markets in Japan, at Hachinohe city, Aomori. From early Sunday morning, over 300 vendors line at large wharf extending for 800 meters.  The queue is from the shop front of “Taian Shokudo.” Everybody is lining up for 40 yen “Shio-teba Half,” which starts selling from 4 a.m.   Ten fryers were fully in run, and the fried food are frizzled next after next.  People buy in mass like “40” to “50” pieces.

Eating deep fries from early morning sounds baloney, but once you start, you just cannot stop. Stomach wakes up as you hear the crispy sound of savory coating and the appetite increases. Juicy fried chicken looks good.  Popularly priced 8mm “super-thick ham cutlet” looks also good.  Boy, my fry-appetite does not stop.  I tried another shop.  What typical humble Aomori Prefecture people express as “so-so good” mackerel croquette of “Saba-coro Seinentai” could be Japanese version of arancini, which is deep-fry of cooked rice seasoned with mackerel.  It is more than just savory, accented with green shiso scent.  

Saba-kara is a deep-fried mackerel of its slice and has great taste of mackerel which flavor flows out from the crispy coating.  Deep-fried rice cracker is made by softened Nanbu rice cracker soaked into water and then coated and fried.  Rice cracker does not stand out but vaguely smells and isn’t that modest.

I got hungrier with eating fries from early morning.  I longed for sake after I put just-grilled sea urchin into my mouth, warmed my heart after I ate mackerel and flatfish bouillabaisse, and broke into a smile with freshly baked croissant. I was delighted with splashing soupy grilled Chinese soup dumpling, nodded with warm and tasty demi-glace sauce of beef stew, and laughed at overflowing thick sauce fried noodles from the pack which lady served.     

At the end of the tour, I calmed down by coffee aroma which was served hand dripped one by one and thought about it.  I will definitely come back again.  And for sure, I will eat dishes I missed – grilled fish by famous guy, black-garlic coffee yokan (sweet beans jelly), kinpira (chopped burdock cooked in sugar and soy sauce) bread, sea urchin rice, Hachinohe rice cracker soup, and kimchee casserole.

暁の胃袋を目覚めさせる 館鼻岸壁朝市








文・マッキー牧元 写真・安野敦洋



1955年東京出身。㈱味の手帖 取締役編集顧問 タベアルキスト。日本国内、海外を、年間600食ほど食べ歩き、雑誌、テレビなどで食情報を発信。「味の手帖」「朝日新聞WEB」「料理王国」「食楽」他連載多数。三越日本橋街大学講師、日本鍋奉行協会顧問。最新刊は「出世酒場」集英社刊。

Tatehana Wharf Morning Market/館鼻岸壁朝市

Tatehana Wharf, Shinminato, Hachinohe city, Aomori Prefecture/青森県八戸市新湊 館鼻岸壁
Open every Sunday from dawn to around 9:00am until December in 2018/12月までの毎週日曜 日の出〜9:00頃

更新: 2018年8月14日