Japanese Ingredient which Fulfills Ideal Texture｜Eneko Atxa Azurmendi＜ENEKO Tokyo＞No.2
Eneko Atxa Azurmendi is an owner and chef of three star restaurant Azurmendi in Basque region of Spain. There is a special product from Japan which chef, who gets lots of inspiration from local food, wants to use even importing all the way. Surprisingly, that is wafer paper of “Kokko Oblate.”
Oblate, or wafer paper, is an edible thin paper made from potato and sweet potato starch. It dissolves easily once in your mouth, so in Japan at one time, wafer paper was used to wrap powder medicine to give to children and aged people who had difficulty swallowing medicine. Because of this traditional usage, Japanese cannot image wafer paper as a foodstuff. What has made Eneko attracted so much to the wafer paper?
“Wafer paper serves very important role to one of my specialite, ‘Lobster in Texture’ to change its texture. Wafer paper is the only thing to achieve light crispness,” says Eneko. There is similar ingredient, pâte filo made of wheat, but that is still too thick. Because Japanese wafer paper thickness is miraculously less than a millimeter, it is the only ingredient which could fulfill his ideal.
This is how he cooks. First, brush the wafer paper with Sauce Américaine made from lobster shell stock, and then dry crisp. Next, fry the wafer paper quickly and roll quickly while still hot. During this shooting, the chef called the cameraman to come closer and cracked the wafer paper stick near the microphone.
“Crunch” -- that is too simple word to express the delicate wafer paper sound. Enveloped with lobster smell makes you feel more hungry. Probably this sound is also attracting the chef.
As a Japanese, it is such a strange thing to see the wafer paper to play an important roll in world’s gastronomic stage. But as the chef says, it is not too far to see the wafer paper to be a standard ingredient in kitchens.
- TOKI-ON Nishiazabu 3-16-28 Nishiazabu Minato-ku Tokyo
- 12:00～14:00(L.O) 18:00～20:00(L.O)
Text by FOOD PORT.